A journey into the Christian culture of Syria

Middle East/N.Africa — By Bob Riel on December 21, 2009 at 7:15 am

Since the Christmas season is upon us, it’s an appropriate time to take a look at holiday and religious-themed topics from around the world. Today, it’s a view into the ancient Christian community of Syria. Although this Middle Eastern nation has had a Muslim majority for well over a millennium, the region plays a central role in the history of Christianity and Christians still account for about a tenth of the Syrian population. Steven Roberts recently wrote about a journey into the Christian culture of Syria, and specifically into the town of Maaloula, for the travel section of the Washington Post.

Syria is known in the West for its combustible politics…Many friends who heard that we were vacationing in Syria thought we were daft, but few realized that the country’s extensive Christian heritage — St. Paul was converted on the road to Damascus, after all — is still here to be seen and heard and felt…

Not far from Maaloula sits the Krak des Chevaliers, a mountain fortress built by Crusaders in the 12th and 13th centuries. In the old city of Damascus, a chapel marks the spot where Paul was nursed and taught by a local Christian, St. Ananias, after his vision. Several of the country’s bewildering array of Christian sects — from Armenian Orthodox to Syrian Catholic — maintain headquarters in Damascus, and we were surprised to see crosses, outlined in vivid bluish-white neon, shimmering in the evening sky.

As soon as you enter Maaloula, its religious heritage is evident. A large statue of the Virgin Mary dominates one hillside; many houses are painted in a pale blue wash, a gesture of respect to the mother of Jesus. Hana pointed out the mountaintops where every year fires are lighted to celebrate the Festival of the Holy Cross…We went first to St. Sergius, the highest point in town, and though not every traveler gets to see a baptism in Aramaic, there are usually guides or schoolgirls present to recite the Lord’s Prayer in the language.